G is for Jean-Paul Gaultier
Long known as the bad boy of French fashion, Jean-Paul Gaultier is a self made man.
This bold and self-assured start has remained a constant theme in all of his daring designs, and he has challenged the traditions of the fashion world in many ways – not only through his avant-garde designs, but often by using unconventional models in his shows – like older men, fuller-figured women, and pierced and heavily tattooed models.
Early in his career Gaultier recognised how many designers ignored the female form at the expense of the construction of a particular line. He was horrified on one occasion to see a model having to have her breasts heavily bandaged down in order for the dress she was modelling to hang properly. This eventually culminated into a controversial series of negotiations of the corset, stemming from his interest in the exaggerated definition of the female form it produced.
Gaultier glamourises street style while cleaning it up for couture – his clothes are seen as both interesting and wearable, with sly erotic detailing such as corset stitching, garter belts, and leather mixed with lace. Some of his most recognisable cutting edge designs are jackets, dresses, and jumpsuits with indiscreet cutouts that make the garments resemble cages.
His unique designs also include dresses and tops with sliced open breasts and bra-like torpedo inserts, off the shoulder tops, multi-layered lycra, vinyl and leather bike pants, and kilt-ish skirts for men.
By injecting kitsch into couture, Gaultier has redefined the traditionally elegant trappings of Paris fashion. His rebellious, seductive, yet always wearable clothes redefine notions of taste and elegance, making him one of the most fashion-forward designers of our time.
By Nikki Webber - Christchurch
